Hi Luke and the rest of the OMBE team. I just startet to surf having taken a course in Sardegna / Italy. I was told, the waves (approx. 1,5 m) were very steep. I was using an 8.0 foam board, 96l, being 5.8 at 75 kg.
in the green wave, I managed the pop-up more often than not, but always too late (being already downhill into the next washing machine :) ). If not thrown of the board at once, I did not manage to get into the "surf-mode", but rather did not know what to do next before then being thrown into the white water. I should mention, that I am still at the state of trying to surf straight towards the beach, i.e. no turns yet.
So I think my 2 questions are timing-questions:
1. Knowing where the busstop is, how do I manage to pop up at the right moment. With my mind still in the paddle-mode, once I feel the wave is lifting me up, it seems to be to late already, accelerating downhill fast. :) ?
2. Having popped up, what would be a good trigger word to change from "I need to pop up now" to actually start surfing ?
Thanks for your ideas
Johan